|
Post by Ron on Sept 21, 2017 2:46:17 GMT
HMF suggests The Garland has a moderate fragrance. The supplier (Trevor White) claims it has the scent of oranges. As to positioning, Zeph might be better in the middle as it will keep blooming after the others but looking at the combination of colours I think I will still put The Garland in the middle.
|
|
|
Post by fozzie on Sept 21, 2017 7:33:00 GMT
Ron, I would leave Garland at the centre with the deeper pink each side of her. I always associate Garland with the Moss group hence a musk fragrance (orange? not sure). All you need to do now is find some Clems to ramble through them, the delicate flowers of the Viticella group will compliment the Roses. If Plocket was still with us, you could ask him. I am sure others, more knowledgeable than I, would be more than willing to offer some suggestions.
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Sept 21, 2017 8:43:56 GMT
There are already some clems planted early last year in the area where they'll go, fozzie, though not viticella. I'll peobably leave them where they are.
|
|
|
Post by fozzie on Sept 25, 2017 22:42:41 GMT
Ladygardener, I thought I'd move here for those other single HTs... White wings (Krebs 1947)... Dainty Bess (Archer 1925)... Ellen Willmott (Archer 1936). there are two HT called Ellen Willmott the one bred by Archer is the one I grow Ellen Willmott was an English horticulturist who cultivated more than 100,000 species of plants in her garden Warley Place. She published "The Genus Rosa" in 1910-14. Sadly the house and gardens are no more the grand house and outbuildings are ruins and the gardens some 90 acres have run wild for approx 100 years. The "Gardens" are leased by Essex Wildlife Trust who are trying to manage it as a Sanctuary. No restoration just maintainance.
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Oct 12, 2017 12:45:54 GMT
fozzie , was buying ten bare root berberis for a hedge but needed something else to meet the minimum order. Added another rose to do so, 'Little Rambler'. Going to have a very pink fence. I should think I'll be able to stretch the coverage to about 40 feet when they are mature, allowing a foot overlap. According to the nursery I shouldn't add any fertilizer when planting, just use root grow. Do you agree with that advice? If I do that I'm going to have to take the organic route as fungicide would kill the beneficial mycorrhizal fungi.
|
|
|
Post by fozzie on Oct 12, 2017 22:31:38 GMT
Ron,What fertilizer were you thinking of? In January I will be completing a raised bed project for the village. 26 bare root roses on a cold, damp January day, only six hours or so! I must be mad. Normally I would use use my trusty Blood Fish and Bone with a top dress/mulch of well rotted compost or farmyard muck. This time I am going to add Root Grow to the regimé for the first time
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Oct 13, 2017 5:35:44 GMT
fozzie, I've seen rave reviews for Root Grow, it seems well worth using, but seemingly phosphorus in fertilizers interferes with it's action. Best perhaps to google it and see what you think.
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Oct 13, 2017 5:43:48 GMT
fozzie , I've found this. < One of the best ways of managing soil fertility is with the addition of organic matter, dug into the soil and then applied again annually as a mulch. Rootgrow also works exceptionally well under these conditions as the annual mulch mimics the autumn leaf layer that condition the soil and actually help mycorrhizal fungi reproduce. However it should be remembered that gardens are fundamentally unnatural and some plants can be very hungry feeders such as Roses and Sweetcorn and will benefit from a boost of fertiliser. When planting a plant and applying extra fertiliser put the mycorrhizal fungi in the bottom of the planting hole and then mix the fertiliser into the backfill or apply as a top dress. The only rule of thumb is to try and keep the fertiliser away from the fungi. After a month or so the plant will be fully colonised and then should not be affected by fertiliser. Mycorrhizal fungi are quite robust and you would probably have to apply a strong liquid feed of inorganic fertiliser every week for 3 months to prevent the fungi from colonising a plant (which hopefully no one would consider doing as it would be a waste of time and money). > So it seems that for the first month at least, fertilizer should be kept away from the Root Grow. I wonder how many people's opinion of Root Grow has been poor because they did not know about this and added fertilizer when planting? If I hadn't researched it, I wouldn't have known. They should put a warning on the label. (Perhaps there is, I haven't looked!)
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Oct 13, 2017 5:57:56 GMT
I will be planting bare root for which the Root Grow gel is recommended. You dip the roots in a solution and let it dry which means it will be difficult to avoid contact with fertilizer if I use any in the planting hole. Not sure what to do, just a top dressing perhaps.
Alternatively I might delay adding even a top dressing for about 4 weeks and just add a seaweed extract as I also found this information ...
< The natural hormones in seaweed are taken up by the plant and promote faster and stronger root and shoot growth. They will also promote the development of beneficial bacteria, microbes and the Mycorrhizal Fungi in the soil. >
|
|
|
Post by fozzie on Oct 13, 2017 19:06:10 GMT
Ron, it also mentions "Humates" as well as "Alginates" as bio additives. Therefore, as long as you are using natural fertilisers, as I am sure you are. No major issues.
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Oct 14, 2017 4:10:52 GMT
Cheers, fozzie, I 'over think' things a bit sometimes. Should be fine.
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Nov 6, 2017 20:02:35 GMT
The Garland, Zeph and Blairii have arrived and are now planted. I'm impressed by the bare root roses sent by Trevor White Old Fashioned Roses, they are healthy, strong and have a substantially developed root system. The other rose and some berberis from Ashridge Trees are yet to come. Emailed them and they haven't been lifted yet. I've noted that they are slow with delivering orders before, think this is the last time I'll use them.
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Nov 7, 2017 10:48:59 GMT
I've cancelled the Ashridge order. What's the point when they won't even give you an estimate of a dispatch date.
|
|
|
Post by Rosefriend on Nov 8, 2017 9:43:18 GMT
I've cancelled the Ashridge order. What's the point when they won't even give you an estimate of a dispatch date. I can understanding them not lifting the roses if there is frost but apart from that surely they could give you some estimate....think I would have done the same - have they got a website that you can comment on - or even Facebook Ron,?
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Nov 8, 2017 11:53:31 GMT
I've cancelled the Ashridge order. What's the point when they won't even give you an estimate of a dispatch date. I can understanding them not lifting the roses if there is frost but apart from that surely they could give you some estimate....think I would have done the same - have they got a website that you can comment on - or even Facebook Ron ,? I've left a review on Trust Pilot Rosefriend , I will see what I can do on Facebook though from experience, suppliers take such comments straight down. This is part of their terms: 'In winter, most of the plants we sell are barerooted and need to be lifted. This happens after you order and when we have sufficient demand to make a lift practical'. So there is no way to know when they will be sent.
|
|
|
Post by Rosefriend on Nov 8, 2017 12:03:02 GMT
I can understanding them not lifting the roses if there is frost but apart from that surely they could give you some estimate....think I would have done the same - have they got a website that you can comment on - or even Facebook Ron ,? I've left a review on Trust Pilot Rosefriend , I will see what I can do on Facebook though from experience, suppliers take such comments straight down. This is part of their terms: 'In winter, most of the plants we sell are barerooted and need to be lifted. This happens after you order and when we have sufficient demand to make a lift practical'. So there is no way to know when they will be sent. and when we have sufficient demand to make a lift practical - so if only one person wants a certain rose you will probably never get it....weird...where are their rose fields, - Timbuktu ??
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Nov 8, 2017 16:03:03 GMT
and when we have sufficient demand to make a lift practical - so if only one person wants a certain rose you will probably never get it....weird...where are their rose fields, - Timbuktu ?? Yes, I know Rosefriend, ridiculous isn't it. They hide this in the terms and conditions. I only found out because I made an inquiry.
|
|
|
Post by Tig on Apr 28, 2019 15:18:13 GMT
Rosefriend quite a few of my roses were are showing dieback after their growth spurt was hit by the recent overnight frosts, including angelface. Should I prune out the frost damage or just wait for them to grow on and the damaged foliage to die back naturally?
|
|
|
Post by Rosefriend on Apr 28, 2019 16:04:07 GMT
Rosefriend quite a few of my roses were are showing dieback after their growth spurt was hit by the recent overnight frosts, including angelface. Should I prune out the frost damage or just wait for them to grow on and the damaged foliage to die back naturally? Same here Tig, - I would wait for a few days to see what we will get, - we may get a little bit more frost and the frost damage as daft as it sounds will protect the bits underneath. After that cutback - you may well see where the healthy shoots are coming...makes it easier!!
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Apr 29, 2019 21:09:04 GMT
Rosefriend quite a few of my roses were are showing dieback after their growth spurt was hit by the recent overnight frosts, including angelface. Should I prune out the frost damage or just wait for them to grow on and the damaged foliage to die back naturally? Same here Tig , - I would wait for a few days to see what we will get, - we may get a little bit more frost and the frost damage as daft as it sounds will protect the bits underneath. After that cutback - you may well see where the healthy shoots are coming...makes it easier!! That's why I leave my Spring pruning until 1st May for some roses. (2 weeks earlier South, 2 weeks later North). It depends on the variety, check it out on 'Help Me Find - Roses', it warns you if a rose needs Spring Freeze Protection.
|
|
|
Post by Tig on Apr 30, 2019 0:10:15 GMT
It's the first time it's happened here Ron, I think the confusing weather, hot, cold, hot, cold, etc had caused too much early soft growth.
|
|
|
Post by Ron on Apr 30, 2019 21:11:01 GMT
Quite likely, Tig. Some are more susceptible though and less likely to recover so it's a good idea to know if you have any like that.
|
|
|
Post by Rosefriend on May 1, 2019 5:23:19 GMT
The UK has an ideal and easy situation Ron, Tig,, hardly any frost damage happens - here in Germany it is totally different. Olaf lost 1000 plants a few years ago...it doesn't really help knowing that they are not so good for people like him as he has to have certain Rose types, simply because they are sought after, whether they are frost hardy or not. He got the concession years ago to graft Austin Roses in Germany - for the simple reason the grafting material that DA used was useless here and most roses died each winter... Standard roses are even worse - we cover them all up each winter..laying small ones down even. However Angelface is no problem - it is a damn good rose from Kordes...still being bought here but still not available in the UK as far as I know.
|
|